Have Rail Pass will travel

I am now officially intrepid and completely in love with Japan.

I left Cathal's on Wednesday morning with a vague plan to get my rail pass, travel north to Tohuku province and stay a few days. I missed the first direct local train into Tokyo by seconds but undaunted I took another one, did a crafty change of lines and was in time to get the 10.46 bullet train to Morioka; all very straightforward and the bullet train was everything a bullet train should be, clean, roomy and very, very fast. I spent a couple of hours in Morioka, drinking tea and talking to a homelss man who had taken up residence in the poet .Takuboku's honey moon house. I then caught a tiny, tiny local train to my next destination, Miyako City. This was a complete joy of a journey, the nicest train ride I have taken this trip, wooded slopes, rivers and cherry blossom, what more could you expect from Japanese countryside? On arriving in Miyako I started to look for somewhere to stay and this is when the highlight of my whole trip began.

I  wandered around town a little hopelessly and came across a little bar that could have been a hotel. Here I met Yasuhiro who firstly put me right about the lack of accommodation at the bar, secondly informed that Miyako was full, no hotels had any room and thirdly that he loved backpackers, wanted to be one himself, that his wife, kids and mother would love me and that I would stay with them. Under normal circumstance this might have sounded like a dodgy offer but I had complete confidence in him and I was right. I spent a fantastic day and 2 lovely nights with them and I have made friends for life. His wife Urara was kind, funny and welcoming. his children were great and we spent lots of time practicing their English and looking at photos. Sae the daughter is 14 and a very good ballet dancer. Yasuhiro took me to his local bar where I met some great Japanese guys who all loved English punk and he also took me on a day of sightseeing along the coast, which was affected by the 2011 tsunami. I was so sad to leave but they had been so unbelievably hospitable I didn't want to outstay my welcome. They have plans to visit Europe and the UK and I would welcome them with open arms. It is moments like this that really touch me, it was and everything I wanted travelling to be...as I've said before it is the people you spend the time with that make the place.....

This is not to say that the Miyako area is not a good place to visit because it is I think one of Japan's best kept secrets. the Sanriku Coast is rugged, beautiful and largely undeveloped. There is evidence of the Tsunami everywhere and lots of rebuilding in progress ( hence the full hotels). the saddest place I saw was Taro  which was pretty much flattened by the tsunami, despite its massive sea wall and has not really recovered. The government has relocated most of the residents here to a hilltop a few kilometres away, in corrugated metal houses. The sea is crystal clear here and so the seafood is exceptional. I was spoiled with sashimi and sushi and many other local delicacies. In land is also lovely, full of pine covered hills, rivers and caves. 

Morioka

Miyako bad boys

Jodogohama Beach

Jodogohama Beach

Yasuhiro

Urara and Yoko

 Kousuke, Sae and Urara

Sad to leave

Urara took me to the station yesterday morning and I caught the train to Sendai, the nearest city to the 2011 earthquake. I found a nice hotel here and then used my rail pass again to visit Matushima another coastal town, this time famous for its pine covered islands. it is considered to be one of Japan's hree most scenic views. It was affected by the Tsunami but escaped major damage because the pine island protected the town. It was a nice place and well worth a visit although much more touristy and developed than the places I had seen further north.

This morning I was intrepid again and took the local train from Sendai to Yamagata, via Yamadera a scenic and atmospheric mountain temple town, which I actually preferred to Nikko. I then took a local bus from Yamagata to my current location Zao Onsen, a  hot spring town and ski resort at 880 metres above sea level. Unfortunately it is raining and has been all afternoon but fortunately being a hot spring town and all that then there are loads of baths. The hot springs run right under the town and there is a smell of sulphur and loads of steam everywhere. The water is very acidic and very hot but I love it...I've had 3 already and I'm planning to get up early and go in the big outdoor pool up the mountain tomorrow- weather permitting. the hotel is very traditional and I am sitting on tatami mats, drinking green tea and reading Japanese literature, wondering if  I can fit in another bath before bed.