Massage and garden

So I've had my first ayurvedic massage and Liz Cook was not lying when she said 'they really slick you in oil'. I felt as if I was being basted ready for the oven, pints of the stuff were poured over my head and body, I slithered on the table as I was pummelled and pounded. I was then put into a cupboard with room for my head to poke out of the top and had to sit for 20 minutes while the cupboard filled up with steam. I was then slathered in green goo that looked like avocado mush and sent to shower. What an unpleasant ordeal you might be thinking...but in fact I felt amazing afterwards...I was glowing and the feeling has lasted all day, except for the fact that my hair is still very oily.
I celebrated the new me with a huge Kerala meals, meal in the hotel restaurant ( lots of little different curries and lots of rice) and made a new friend, Rada a flight planner, who works in Dubai but is currently building a holiday cottage in the hills and creating a garden. We got talking over lunch and he told me about his training at Gatwick airport and he memorable visit to Wakehurst Place. He took me to see his project and garden after lunch and I spent four hours being shown around the garden and all the different plants he has acquired from all over the world as well as all the local spices that grow there.It was a great afternoon  Rada was interesting, informative and not sleazy. We have swapped email addresses and I now have an open invitation to visit him and his family in Dubai as well as an invitation to stay in the holiday cottage when it is complete.

Every day since I have been on my own I have met interesting people in unexpected places and that has been one of the nice thing about my travels so far.

Not sure if I'm going to have any internet access for the next few days now...I'm heading off the beaten path a little.

World's worst safari

Firstly here are some photos of yesterday...caves etc

Today started very badly. I got up at 5.15, waited in the dark outside the Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary , had to pay 500 rupees entrance fees and put up with moaning Israeli family. A 7 I was ordered into a jeep with a driver and 2 other random blokes who just chatted to each other in Malayalam and then driven at breakneck speed over  very bumpy roads in what I presume was the sanctuary.  The jeep screeched to a halt twice, once to show me a peacock and secondly, even more thrilling, to show me a wild hen!!! We did see some spotted deer too but it was hard to make them out as we whizzed by. Perhaps I'm being slightly unfair, the driver did point out a tiger track to me but all in all my 45 minutes were up very quickly.....The park is actually open between 7 and 10 in the mornings so why people are only given 45 minute slots is beyond me. I expect I have been spoiled by my safari and game park experience in Africa but even so I felt not only disappointed but also ripped off by the whole Muthanga experience and I'm not going to rush to another Indian wildlife sanctuary any time soon.

My disappointment spilled over into the other days activites and I felt a bitter the bitter irony when Kuruva Island was temporarily closed because an elephant had been spotted in the vicinity. I did make it over to the island eventually in some peculiar raft that was guided by men using overhead ropes but I was hot and underwhelmed by this point. Banasura dam was a similar story...too many people, too many stairs, too hot. The day was saved however by all of the people who insisted on talking to me, wanting to know where I was from, did I like Kerala etc and wanting their photo taken with me. I felt like a celebrity and it was hard to be grumpy with so much sweetness and friendliness around. I started reciprocating in the end and have pictures of me with random groups of Indian tourist filling up my memory card.
The trip ended at Pookode Lake which was my favourite place of the day, it was quiet, calm. peaceful and had a nice breeze. I also bumped into a lovely English couple from Cornwall who are planning to hit the beach near Kannur at the same time as me. So all in all not a total disaster.

I've planned my next week's accommodation and I'm going to spend a lazy day tomorrow in Sulthan Batherie, as well as getting an Ayurvedic massage.

Hello Wayand

I was out of the Sea Queen like a shot this morning. Breakfast was vile, rubbery pancakes and tasteless samba and the unpleasant male receptionist tried to charge me for using wifi, I fooled him with my 'oh sorry I've only got a 1,000 note' trick. As luck would have it I arrived at the bus station just as the super delux a/c bus was leaving for Sultan Batherie and so arrived by 12.30. My new hotel, The Mint Flower, is lovely. It's clean, smart and not in a building site and the staff cannot do enough for me. I've already been whisked off to see the Edakaal Caves and the Jain temple, both of which are very, very old and are examples of prehistoric engravings. There is a nice family run bakery and restaurant attached to the hotel and I plan to eat there tonight.

Tomorrow morning I'm off at 5.45 to the Muthanga Wildlife sanctuary and then some more local sight seeing, with my own driver... I could have gone by bus with the world's rudest Israeli family but I thought I'd have more fun and less chance of conflict on my own.

Kathakali and Kozikhode

Yesterday went according to plan and was a good lesson in 'you never know what is round the corner'. I caught the ferry to Fort Cochin with Rob and Dave and left them at their new hotel. I was suddenly filled with a real sense of loneliness and felt at a bit of a loss...there was not much more to see in Fort Cochin than I'd seen before and there was nowhere nice to sit and take in the atmosphere...I wrote some postcards and made a definite plan with myself to see some Kathakali dancing that night and leave for Kozikhode the next morning. Filled with resolution things then looked up, I found 2 nice cafes to sit, drink juice and write postcards and then as I was waiting for the ferry back a shy looking woman approached me. She was Lucie from Switzerland, just arrived on the night train after 3 weeks on an organised tour and terrified of being on her own. I was in my element, we chatted, I helped her plan what she wanted to do and then she came with me in the evening to the Kathakali show- just when you think you are all alone someone pops into your life, she also made me realise that I am not terrified of being on my own, i just don't like saying goodbye to people.
Anyway the Kathakali show was an eye opener. We went to a cultural centre near the station which is famous for its director, who us credited with raising the status of Kathakali in the area.The performances usually take place in Hindu temples during festivals and male dancers ( who are made up and dressed up in elaborate costumes) recreate stories from the holy Hindu scriptures, playing the parts of Gods. The training for the performers is very long because every single eye movement, hand gesture, finger point carries a meaning and this is how the story is told. we were just given a taster and I was hooked, despite not understanding the story......There was also some comedy value for me, which I couldn't share with Lucie...The performers do look a bit like over-made up giant pantomime dames attempting to communicate by sign language...not sure I can share that thought with anyone here at the moment. t complete my odd day I was stopped outside the hotel by some bloke gave me loads of advice on where to see live Kathakali, where to stay in Wayanad and who also owns the place I want to stay near Kannur later on...and he wasn't sleazy just wanted to chat in English. ghe did advise me that Kozikhode was a 'terrible shitty place@ wish I'd listened to him- see below.

I left Cochin this morning as part of my intrepid plan to get to Wayanad and see some wildlife. I caught the train at 11.05 even though I was told it went at 11.30. I arrived at 3.30 despite being told it arrived at 4 and I've booked into the Sea Queen Hotel Kozikhode ( formerly known as Calicut). Never have reality and the official hotel website told such a different story- and not in a good way. My initial reaction to both the hotel and the whole town have been tempered slightly by the free wifi in the lobby, the lovely girl on reception and the promise of a nice meal in the roof top restaurant ( about the only thing the website got right). there is a beach and a promenade which are not too awful but it is all a bit down at heel and there is a horrible smell in the air. I've booked tomorrow night's accommodation in Wayanad already.

Top Station and back to Ernakulem

Intrepid day 3 on my own involved a rickshaw drive to Top Station, which the guide book described as a picturesque hamlet on the Tamil Nadu border. I was accompanied on my way by Dave and Rob, the 2 Australian brother I had met the day before. On the way to top station we stipped at a honey bee tree which I  thought was quite spectacular, a dam and a corner of the dam called Echo Point. It really was the tourist road...mainly local Indian tourists to be fair but packed nevertheless and full of tacky souvenir shops. Echo Point however did have an echo which we tested out. Top Station was infact a tea plantation, high up and surrounded in mist....we were a little disappointed but at least the journey up had been fun and we realised that were all planning to catch the same bus the next day.

Putting the previous bus experience behind me I bravely got on the Munnar-Kochin bus yesterday morning with Rob and Dave...it was a long hot journey but this time there were no crashes and we booked into a nice hotel in the centre of Ernakulem...different to Munnar, a much more modern city with neon lit shopping malls and high rise office blocks. We are well placed for local ferries and plan to catch one later today. The boys are planning to move to Fort Cchin tonight but I'm going to stay here and try and see some Kathkali at the Folklore museum.

Tried to upload photos but sooooo slooooow.

Photos of last few days

Nearly all of the photos are in chronological order, apart from the last one which should have come first, the water falls and morning in Munnar have all moved around a bit but you'll get the gist

Kumarakon at sunset
Our homestay
The lovely girls at the school in Kottayam
Our houseboat trip
The river at Ayemenon and me infront of Arundati Roy's house
The Periyar River and washer women
Elephants at Kottanad
the 'waterfall' that wasn't
the crash
Munnar in the morning
the 8 hour hike....more on this later

Going to Top Station later today. Munnar is great and I haven't been all alone lovely fellow travellers here.

Elephants and bye bye Liz

Still unable to upload photos but I have a cunning plan for tomorrow.

So since the last entry we travelled North and slightly West to Kottanad on the banks of the Periyar River. This time our train was twice as quick as we were expecting but didn't leave at any of the times we were expecting...9.50 became 10.10, became 10.20 etc. We were excited and apprehensive about our new accommodation, The Riverfront resort, mainly because most of the correspondence had taken place by text...our anxieties were not ill founded. The Riverfront resort was quickly nicknamed 'The Resort That Time Forgot' and during our 2 nights there we were never really convinced that the sweet little man purporting to be in charge had any idea about how to run any sort of tourist establishment. He was kind and sweet and organised a whole day of activities for us, including seeing elephants being washed, which was a highlight for Liz but his efforts to take us to see beautiful waterfalls became rather a misguided and comic,involving various passers by, who tagged along, screaming old men masquerading as lifeguards, a brush with heatstroke and 2 English women wrapped in tea towels...all good fun. He also snuck off to the local takeaway at night and tried to pass off the all be it delicious food as his and the cook's own work...we were not fooled but he was so sweet that we forgave him. He accompanied Liz to the airport this morning and took me to my bus as well. It was a great end to Liz's 2 week stay and gave us plenty to chat about on her last night, during the regulation 1/2 hour power cut.

I shall miss Liz's inadvertent flouting of cultural taboos...mainly to do with underwear, I shall miss her fashion advice and hair tips, I shall miss her washing advice ( clothes not myself), I shall miss her elegant outfits, her laugh, her jokes but most of all I shall just miss her.....I'm on my own now for 5 weeks until I meet up with my next travelling companion and I need to practice being intrepid

Stage one to being intrepid happened this morning when I caught a bus all by myself to the hill station of Munnar. Everything was going so well and I was congratulating myself on my intrepidness and lack of panic at the driver's  constant sharp braking when.......he didn't brake sharply enough and we ploughed into a car on a bend!! Yes first day on my own and I am part of a road traffic accident, not a good omen! However the sound of the impact was much more  dramatic than it sounded...no one was hurt, everyone got off and had a good look, the police came, there was nearly a fight and then another bus came and picked us all up and  I got to Munnar only 1/2 an hour later than planned. I've got a huge room in a nice, clean guest house called Green View and I've booked to go trekking in the hills tomorrow morning. I'm glad the accident happened because now it can't happen again....glass half full you know me.

Kumarakom

We left Varkala with some trepidation and caught the train to Kottayam about 100km to the north. The journey was slow but we had lovely people in our carriage and the conversation turned quite philosophical. We took yet another auto-rickshaw to Kumarakom on the banks of Lake Vemabad ( my spelling may not be great) and settled in to our heritage homestay...We have struck gold. We are the guests of Soni and Crispin who are possibly the nicest people we have ever met in our lives. The house is a traditional Syrian-Christian, Keralan house and it is airy and spacious. We are surrounded by rubber trees and coconut trees and the small little channels of water that make up the backwaters. The food is all home cooked and as expected, delicious.

Soni is an English teacher at a girl's catholic school in Kottayam and on Saturday morning we went to school with her and gave some impromptu English lessons. What a reception we were given...lots of smiling, fresh faces all desperate to talk to us and ask questions- not quite the same as my experience in England. In the afternoon we were the only guests on the homestay's houseboat and we spent 4 hours on the lake and some of the smaller canals, we swam, lazed, ate more delicious food and took in the beautiful scenery..think palm trees, green paddy fields, and lots of water.

Today I got up early and went to the local bird sanctuary and was paddled around by a friendly guide on another part of the lake. I saw various kingfishers, open billed stork, pond and purple heron, moorhens...it was magical..there was still a mist rising off the lake and it was quiet and still. After breakfast we attempted a swim at a local hotel but were thwarted, by cost and in one case by the sheer rudeness with which our request was greeted. This has been the only blot on the otherwise lovely landscape. After lunch we set off on a mission to find the town and the house featured in Arundati Roy's novel 'The God of small things'. This was a mission indeed but Raji our rickshaw driver was like a dog with a bone, we saw the river, what we assume is/was the pickle factory and finally after much stopping and asking of passers by, the house itself. It was a lovely thing to do, I'm rereading the book at the moment and to be a stone's throw away from where she set the story is quite a special thing and has brought everything to life. It also makes me appreciate just how powerful her descriptions of the place are, the colours, the heat, the smells. I'm really glad we made the effort and if you haven't read the book and want a real sense of what it's like here then get it quick!

I have taken loads of photos but unfortunately can't upload any here- there's no wifi so I'm using the homestay's old computer, which doesn't appear to have any jack points ( not sure if this is the right terminology).

We move on tomorrow to Kottanad elephant sanctuary, where Liz is hoping to wash a baby elephant. 

Gurus and Backwaters

We have had a busy few days and are in the process of packing to leave for Kumarakom tomorrow. The cricket watching did not go well as the cafe could not get a signal but we were kept informed of the score .

Yesterday we wanted to visit the temple of Sri Narayana Guru, who was a local philosopher and social reformer. The temple itself was quite plain but the whole atmosphere surrounding the place was really peaceful  and the whole idea of the guru's ideas on equality for all, as well as his ideas about all religion being open to everyone and in fact being less important than doing good were echoed everywhere. He was a big hero of the current Dalai  Lama who visited the ashram in November this year. We were advised to arrive at the temple in time for lunch, which consisted of various small portions of curry, pickles and rice served on a banana leaf.We were waited on by residents of the ashram in a huge dining hall full of local people and worshippers - a fantastic experience and the best  way to eat traditional Keralan food.

Today we headed out bright and early for a backwaters tour-something that Kerala is famous for. We started our tour near to Chenganassery and travelled on a punted canoe through lots of narrow canals. Our guide and 'punter ' also saw how hungry we were before the trip started so invited us for a home cooked breakfast at his family home, a great way to start the day. We saw comorants, herons and kingfishers along the way, local people going about theirr daily lives and generally just soaked up the amazing scenery and slow lapping of the water. Liz had a go at punting herself which was a success, despite hurting her knee, she also bravely swam in one of the lagoons which was impressive. I sat and relaxed.

Still in Varkala

Yes we are still here and despite being told off for closing doors too noisily and being given instructions on how to move sun loungers, we are well settled planning to stay longer. For the last 2 days we have started at 7 with yoga on the roof while it is still cool. Yesterday we walked to Temple Junction for breakfast overlooking the temple tank, which was atmospheric and a real reminder of the life that goes on outside of the tourist resort. Today we are having breakfast in the Ayurvedic hotel next door, sitting in the garden on the top of the cliff overlooking the sea in which we swam earlier. We have been befriended by the umbrella man on the beach, the owner of a local cafe and the postgraduate student who drives a rickshaw in the holidays. Some of these friendships are more simple and uncomplicated than others.
We have discovered, not unsurprisingly that the further away we are from the seafront then the better the food and the other well known but often forgotten fact that the dingier the facade the tastier the food. We have also discovered that it really is too hot to go the beach after about 11 in the morning and that walking anywhere in the heat makes us grumpy.
To counter this we plan to laze in the shade during the day and if we need to venture into town we have the number of  Hataf our part time driver. There is another temple near by with an interesting story attached which we plan to visit and this afternoon we shall be watching the cricket in the local cafe.

We are so lazy that we might even let Mr Grumpy from the guesthouse organise a backwaters tour for us instead of getting the train, finding a boat etc etc. At this point I'm not sure Liz will have the energy to get herself to the airport to fly back.....life is good

Liz has also turned into Miranda on this trip, a much slimmer and prettier Miranda it has to be said but Miranda nevertheless. There have been several food related clumsy moments, a couple of bikini malfunctions, some bizarre head-dress incidents as well as the ritual misplacing of any essential item prior to leaving the room. Her finest moment came yesterday at the local tailor's when as well as getting a new dress made she also got a free ride on the back of a motor bike- photo follows.