Yesterday went according to plan and was a good lesson in 'you never know what is round the corner'. I caught the ferry to Fort Cochin with Rob and Dave and left them at their new hotel. I was suddenly filled with a real sense of loneliness and felt at a bit of a loss...there was not much more to see in Fort Cochin than I'd seen before and there was nowhere nice to sit and take in the atmosphere...I wrote some postcards and made a definite plan with myself to see some Kathakali dancing that night and leave for Kozikhode the next morning. Filled with resolution things then looked up, I found 2 nice cafes to sit, drink juice and write postcards and then as I was waiting for the ferry back a shy looking woman approached me. She was Lucie from Switzerland, just arrived on the night train after 3 weeks on an organised tour and terrified of being on her own. I was in my element, we chatted, I helped her plan what she wanted to do and then she came with me in the evening to the Kathakali show- just when you think you are all alone someone pops into your life, she also made me realise that I am not terrified of being on my own, i just don't like saying goodbye to people.
Anyway the Kathakali show was an eye opener. We went to a cultural centre near the station which is famous for its director, who us credited with raising the status of Kathakali in the area.The performances usually take place in Hindu temples during festivals and male dancers ( who are made up and dressed up in elaborate costumes) recreate stories from the holy Hindu scriptures, playing the parts of Gods. The training for the performers is very long because every single eye movement, hand gesture, finger point carries a meaning and this is how the story is told. we were just given a taster and I was hooked, despite not understanding the story......There was also some comedy value for me, which I couldn't share with Lucie...The performers do look a bit like over-made up giant pantomime dames attempting to communicate by sign language...not sure I can share that thought with anyone here at the moment. t complete my odd day I was stopped outside the hotel by some bloke gave me loads of advice on where to see live Kathakali, where to stay in Wayanad and who also owns the place I want to stay near Kannur later on...and he wasn't sleazy just wanted to chat in English. ghe did advise me that Kozikhode was a 'terrible shitty place@ wish I'd listened to him- see below.
I left Cochin this morning as part of my intrepid plan to get to Wayanad and see some wildlife. I caught the train at 11.05 even though I was told it went at 11.30. I arrived at 3.30 despite being told it arrived at 4 and I've booked into the Sea Queen Hotel Kozikhode ( formerly known as Calicut). Never have reality and the official hotel website told such a different story- and not in a good way. My initial reaction to both the hotel and the whole town have been tempered slightly by the free wifi in the lobby, the lovely girl on reception and the promise of a nice meal in the roof top restaurant ( about the only thing the website got right). there is a beach and a promenade which are not too awful but it is all a bit down at heel and there is a horrible smell in the air. I've booked tomorrow night's accommodation in Wayanad already.
Anyway the Kathakali show was an eye opener. We went to a cultural centre near the station which is famous for its director, who us credited with raising the status of Kathakali in the area.The performances usually take place in Hindu temples during festivals and male dancers ( who are made up and dressed up in elaborate costumes) recreate stories from the holy Hindu scriptures, playing the parts of Gods. The training for the performers is very long because every single eye movement, hand gesture, finger point carries a meaning and this is how the story is told. we were just given a taster and I was hooked, despite not understanding the story......There was also some comedy value for me, which I couldn't share with Lucie...The performers do look a bit like over-made up giant pantomime dames attempting to communicate by sign language...not sure I can share that thought with anyone here at the moment. t complete my odd day I was stopped outside the hotel by some bloke gave me loads of advice on where to see live Kathakali, where to stay in Wayanad and who also owns the place I want to stay near Kannur later on...and he wasn't sleazy just wanted to chat in English. ghe did advise me that Kozikhode was a 'terrible shitty place@ wish I'd listened to him- see below.
I left Cochin this morning as part of my intrepid plan to get to Wayanad and see some wildlife. I caught the train at 11.05 even though I was told it went at 11.30. I arrived at 3.30 despite being told it arrived at 4 and I've booked into the Sea Queen Hotel Kozikhode ( formerly known as Calicut). Never have reality and the official hotel website told such a different story- and not in a good way. My initial reaction to both the hotel and the whole town have been tempered slightly by the free wifi in the lobby, the lovely girl on reception and the promise of a nice meal in the roof top restaurant ( about the only thing the website got right). there is a beach and a promenade which are not too awful but it is all a bit down at heel and there is a horrible smell in the air. I've booked tomorrow night's accommodation in Wayanad already.
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